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Sweden Carl-Johan Ryner's blog« See all C-J's blogs

Practicing felt
20 Feb 2009 at 10:08 | Posted in: General | Views: 4655 | Comments: 16
A week later than planned I will now, as promised, share with you how I normally practice felt. Of course the practice at the beginning of the season is not the same as the days before a competition. It’s pretty obvious that you can’t place foreign object in the course while you are preparing for a competition.

First out is a favourite of mine, which I used a lot before I could master both spin shots. What you need is a straight lane with a gate and a piece of smooth wood. Place the wood in the opening and make sure it covers about 40% of the opening. Place the ball all the way out on the tee, on the same side you have covered (wood covering right side, place the ball to the right), and make spin shots trying to ace the hole. After a while you switch sides and covers up the other side of the gate and play with the other spin. Make sure you have chosen a lane with a green that doesn’t fall to either side. When Karin and I used this method a lot of years ago we made it a bit tougher as we used a lane with two gates, covering up different sides and thereby demanding a more diagonal shot.

Nowadays when I practice spin shots I mostly concentrate on making a good backswing and striking the ball cleanly. I got a question a couple of years ago how I could possibly make spin shots, since I never flex my wrists. I’m a firm believer in that wrists, in minigolf, are never to be flexed. There are some exceptions, like when you’re stuck behind an obstacle on felt and need extra speed, but other than in those occasions, you should never use the wrists. The spin on the ball is generated by altering the swing plane. To simplify the theoretical part, a shot without spin are made with a swing straight back and then straight forward through the ball. If you want hook, the head of the club should move back and towards your body and the forward and away. If you want slice the head of the club should move back and away from you and then forward and towards you. It’s very important not to make a loop in the backswing. Most players can play with hook, not many can play with slice and control the direction of the shot. The problem is almost always that the player is making a normal back swing and then pulling the club viciously towards the body when hitting the ball. The control is close to zero when playing a shot like that. If they could just focus on making the back swing to the correct point, then the swing forward will give you a lot of spin.

Now when I’m on the subject of swinging the club, I feel the need of sharing my thoughts on the standard swing. When playing felt you should use the natural force of the club along with a controlled acceleration to set speed on the ball. If you need more speed on the ball you should use a longer back swing generating more speed to the club. And you should always hit through the ball, never hit the ball. I don’t know if that actually made any sense. What I’m getting at is that the ball is not the ending point of the swing, it’s the middle point. Take the most consistent player in the world, Harald Erlbruch. His swing never ever hesitates or accelerates when he’s about the hit the ball. He just swings through the ball as it wasn’t even there. On a short side note, last winter Anders Olsson and I were in Jönköping educating some players from the south of Sweden in minigolf techniques. There was a lady who had just started playing and had a real short back swing. I asked why and she said that she had been told by a player in her club to never swing back longer than the tee. That would translate to about 30-35cm. I told her that the “teacher” obviously didn’t know anything about playing in an easy way and asked her to double her back swing. Need I say that she improved?
Now back on track. If you use a longer back swing, smooth acceleration and swing through the ball, it’s not really difficult to play as hard as I do on felt. Being able to play a hard shot on felt is often very good. A lot of times long lanes are falling in one direction and the harder you play, the less fall will influence the ball. But you should not ever try to “over swing” and lose control of your shot just because you want more speed on the ball. Everything comes down to timing and you can only get timing by practicing. We used to have a bridge as lane 2 on felt and 4 meters after the green we hade an inclined channel as lane 4. We were several, very young, players who tried to hit so hard that the ball flew from the actual bridge onto lane 4 and passing through the channel. Realizing that pure strength didn’t have anything to do with making this shot we used the things I’ve talked about and actually succeeded with the shot many times. This is NOT anything I would like to recommend practicing when there are visitors at the course, but with an empty course you can do a lot of things…

As a final idea for you all, I will tell you of how simple I practice my swing at the beginning of the season. As probably all of you that have seen me play felt have noticed I tilt my club towards my back foot. This is because I want to lock my right wrist preventing any movement. Adding to the tilt is the fact that when I broke my wrist some 28 years ago in a huge ski slope (0,5 m high), the doctor wasn’t that good at putting in back exactly in place. This was not so good for my tennis career, but an advantage for minigolf as I can’t move the wrist as much. Anyway, the tilt of the club causes me to hit slightly on top of the ball some times. To minimize this I have made a hellish practice routine.
I start at lane 1 and should have 10 shots going through AND they should all be with a clean hit on the ball. If I succeed, I move on to lane 2, but if I fail the lane, then I start over. My record is clearing lane 5 which took me close to two hours.

I will end this time with a good rule on accuracy.
Rule of Accuracy: When working toward the solution of a problem, it always helps if you know the answer.
Corollary: Provided, of course, that you know there is a problem.

previous comments    next comments
Comments (16)

Finland JJM (John Mittler) | Delete

27 Feb 2009 at 12:27
A mistake in my last writing:

"front edge, which is rotating to the RIGHT in right spin (or to the LEFT in left spin), so the ball turns in uphill to THIS direction"

should be:

"front edge, which is rotating to the LEFT in right spin (or to the RIGHT in left spin), so the ball turns in uphill to THE OPPOSITE direction"

Finland JJM (John Mittler) | Delete

22 Feb 2009 at 08:14
Hmmm I want to correct my last statement a bit, with quotes from my 1992 booklet 'Win Yourself at Minigolf':

"Right-hand spin bends the ball a bit to the right in uphill, and to the left in downhill."

Explanation: In uphill the ball takes contact with lane on its front edge, which is rotating to the right in right spin (or to the left in left spin), so the ball turns in uphill to this direction. In downhill the ball takes contact with lane on its back edge, which is rotating to the opposite direction, so the ball turns to the opposite direction. This explains why the straight spin shot in Double Hill bends like a snake to left and right, in the two hills of the lane.

"On lanes without uphills or downhills the ball should theoretically travel straight ..."

Explanation: On level ground side spin turns the ball to all directions at the same time, so the sum is zero. But when a hard ball travels on soft carpet, like a billiards ball on snooker table, the soft carpet resists the movement, and the pressure is higher on front edge than on back edge of the contact point between ball and carpet. For this reason, a ball on snooker table behaves as if it were in slight uphill: side spin always turns the ball a bit.

This turning effect on level ground is very minimal (or zero) on hard surfaces, such as beton and eternite.

"... but surprise, surprise: on felt and open system the surface material is in fact a series of very small 'uphills' and 'downhills'. Strong spin may sometimes make the ball bend into surprising directions, depending on what kind of miniature uphills and downhills the ball finds on the surface of the lane."

Explanation: same as above.

Finland JJM (John Mittler) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 21:40
Straight roll with side spin is possible for the first 50 cm or 1 m, when the ball slides or flies in the air. Then the ball will change direction a bit, when the carpet bites to the surface of ball, but again some seconds later the ball will continue straight, because the friction has killed any such side spin that resists forward motion.

I played snooker competitions in teenage, so I have some touch to the effect of side spins and topspin or backspin to the course travelled by the ball.

Sweden Haazeman (Hans  Olofsson) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 18:21
I was refering to straight roll and side spin, is it possible in theory?

even very slow shots on a felt course where the ball clearly is rolling has enough spin to make the ball change direction after hitting the wall.

You have a point about placebo regarding the putting, but nevertheless many golfers and instructors put very high focus on ball roll. I don't.....

Finland JJM (John Mittler) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 15:37
In the long air shots outside of the green, spin makes a big difference in golf, of course. But on the green? Topspin in putting is not the only thing in golf industry (read: big money business, where companies make claims to sell products), which gets a lot of nonsense focus in product advertisements and golf magazine articles.

How can a ball roll and spin at the same time? Well the first half meter the ball slides forward, without rolling at all. Then friction between the ball and carpet causes the ball to roll (instead of spinless sliding): the ball gets topspin.

In billiards, "topspin" means that the ball spins forward more quickly than a naturally rolling ball would, which causes extra friction between the carpet and the quickly spinning ball, and the friction will eat the spin away in 5 or 10 seconds, after which the ball continues a natural roll without any extra topspin.

Similarly, "backspin" means that the ball spins less forward (or actually backwards) than the natural forward roll would be, which causes friction between carpet and the ball, and which gets neutralized in a relatively short time (usually 5 or 10 seconds).

The amount of topspin or backspin coming from a golf putter is so small that it sounds like 100% placebo talk, 0% real effects to anyone´s game.

Sweden Haazeman (Hans  Olofsson) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 13:56
nobody, that was my point....
But the roll of the ball and any spin (topspin as some says is required) takes up much focus in the golf industry.

btw,
a ball either spins or rolls around its own axle, how can it roll and spin at the same time, still rolling straight forward?

Finland JJM (John Mittler) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 13:44
Who needs topspin in minigolf or golf putting? Any topspin or backspin in the ball would be neutralized within the first 5 meters that the ball rolls on the lane. (With slowest shots, within the first 50 cm.)

Sweden C-J (Carl-Johan Ryner) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 13:18
Anders is correct. I have a negative loft, around -1.

Sweden Haazeman (Hans  Olofsson) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 13:16
You all need to keep in mind that the optimal thing is to hit the ball going slightly upwards to create top-spin, thus you need to "lift" the club before hitting the ball...

That and other great advice on putting could be found in the world of golf.

Do it like Hans Daly, "grip it and putt it!"

Finland JJM (John Mittler) | Delete

21 Feb 2009 at 12:52
Backwards.... forward... I guess everyone means a different thing with the same word here.

With "backward" I meant that the club-head is more behind than the upper end of putter (maybe not a perfect word choice for this), so the loft gets neutralized, and the front edge of putter is straight 90 degrees.

Many putters that I have seen, from Benny to Reisinger, also have the club-head turned a bit to the left (in right-hand putters) compared to the handle, which also causes natural hook spin, and makes a spinless swing quite difficult and unnatural. So to get a clean spinless swing, the first thing to do is to ensure that the club-head has an optimal loft and direction (compared to the handle). This will often need some hammering.

Many years ago I had some natural hook spin with my Caddy Vario. I got rid of it by heating the joint between club-head and shaft, and turning the club-head to the right maybe 10 degrees. After this operation, the natural place of ball is more to the left than before. For a right-hand player, ball more to the left means less natural hook and more natural slice spin.
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